Adventure StoryArrived in Palisades Basin just in time to see massive rockslide down to the bench below summit. Started ascent next morning, got snowed on briefly at 13,000 feet. Pressed on to summit by noon, rapelled off summit block, and lower chute below catwalk. Careful descent in soft rotten snow on steep slopes, got hit by snow again at 13,000 ft, this time with lightning cracking directly over our heads and some hail. The situation rapidly became dangerous and scary; all rocks were subsequently coated with a semi-frozen slurry and were incredibly slippery. Waited out storm. Descended to basin, and slogged along the snowfield back to camp below Thunderbolt Pass. Saw beautiful alpenglow near dusk. Heard another loud rockfall after sunset.
Adventure TipsBe careful of rockfall in morning and evening, don't camp below the chutes. Weather is unstable; it snowed on us in July. Watch for thunderstorms. Bring a climbing rope, webbing, and stoppers/passive protection, as many sections have lethal vertical exposure. For early summer ascents, bring extra fuel to melt snow, crampons, and an ice axe.
North Palisade has been rated as the second hardest to climb in the lower 49 states:http://www.peakbagger.com/list.aspx?lid=821
